Tubing from softener to drain freely in immediate bed of bark with plants. I would thoroughly appreciate 2 cents from anyone about whether any of these are worth pursuing. I have attached pics of the immediate vicinity outdoors, and potential options. Over time, that's a significant difference. Only down side is $6 per 50 lb bag for sodium, and $30 per 50 lb bag for potassium. Also, people mention using the potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride to minimize impact of the salts on the vegetation. Sounds like 50 gals per regen is not uncommon for this stream, every 10 days or so. Some say no issues for years, some say killed vegetation. Internet research seems to give a 50/50 split with people's success with draining to yard being good/bad results. I'm starting to think I may do that for now, and if it has issues, buck up and pay (probably a lot of money to) a plummer to figure out a solution. Can I just connect the 3/4" line into a 2" (currently drawn as 1.5") standpipe that has a P-trap? The standpipe would be open to the surroundings to act as the air gap in the event of a sewer line plug. (I drew this in as 1.5" in the attached picture, as I was originally planning on a 1/2" drain line into the stack. The tie-in line must be 2.5X the drain line entering the system.In below's picture, I have highlighted yellow the section that would be new.Īs far as I know from initial internet research, there are 3 requirements for this: I'd like for what I'm doing to meet code. The stack is currently only for a bathroom's tub/toilet/sink drain. I need to tie this drain line into a 2" auxiliary vent stack in our house for a sewer connection. It needs to be this big (normal is 1/2") because I am sending the drained saltwater more than 20 feet from the softener, and the manual recommended 3/4" if that is the case. I have a 3/4" PVC line leaving the softener. I don't have many locations for the drain line on my water softener I am preparing to install.
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